Ian, Elani and Matt returned to Breakneck, this time adding Alex to the mix. We got a very early start in hopes of getting in as much as possible before the nearly guaranteed rain coming later in the day. We had originally planned on going to Seneca, but the weather was too dismal to make the longer drive and full-weekend trip. Matt took some good whippers on Bowling Ball (5.11a), then Alex finished the route as the rain started to come in. Ian and Elani worked on the shorter wall, practicing leading, cleaning anchors, and rappelling.
Climbing at Breakneck
Ian, Elani, and Matt got an early start out of Pittsburgh to beat the oncoming heat. Elani got her first sport lead on Eclipse (5.6), as well as a nice practice fall from above her last bolt. Ian cruzed up Grab Your Balls (5.9), and then the team transitioned over to the slimy, wet, left side of the main wall. Too slick to be led, towropes were dropped on New School (5.10b) and Bowling Ball (5.11a). While conditions made the lower parts of these routes a challenge, they were in the shade all day due to the southbound arc of the sun this late in the summer. It wasn't until our hike out that we noticed the insane heat and humidity.
New River Gorge Climbing
Eleven explorers spent the holiday weekend at New River Gorge, taking advantage of absolutely perfect weather. The group spent three sunny days climbing mostly trad and toprope.
The group spent Saturday at Beauty Mountain, where we climbed a 5.8 offwidth, some 5.9 cracks, and a couple 5.10 finger cracks (including Matt's project--a 4-year old "sandbagged" him before he left the ground!). While a few headed out early, Day 2 took the remaining climbers to Endless Wall. Most of the day was spent in the Fantasy area, where Fantasy crack (5.8) and Black and Tan (5.10a) were group favorites). The group explored other nearby routes, taking the chance to practice crack climbing and contemplate the difference between jelly and jam.
On Monday, the two remaining cars got up at the crack of dawn to jam in a little more climbing before returning to CMU, with one car heading to Ambassador Buttress, and the other to Junkyard. Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+) nearly ate a cam, but all managed to escape with gear intact.
Red River Gorge, KY
Matt led his first 5.11b on Amarillo Sunset. The crux foot-on-bolt move proved to be no challenge for the quasi-hipster*. In other climbing news, CMUX members Matt & Felix with ECP sidekicks Kevin, Jenny, Adam, Michelle, & baby Santiago enjoyed three perfect Kentucky days at the RRG. They fearlessly tackled the Blues Brothers Wall and narrowly avoided raging wildfires in Muir Valley, followed by a peaceful day in Purple Valley and Dip Wall. On Sunday, they visited Bilbo Baggins in the Shire at PMRP, where Felix actually led the incredible Amarillo Sunset and Adam seconded. Props, studs.
*for factual accuracy, Adam actually pulled him up
Selected DJ Setlist:
Phantogram - Voices
M∅ - No Mythologies to Follow
Lucius - Wildewoman
Black Prairie
Beirut
Trampled by Turtles
This American Life
Radiolab
Walls and Notable Routes:
Blues Brothers
Purple Valley
Dip Wall
The Shire - Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
-M. Barnes
New River Gorge, WV
We left for the New Friday afternoon with a car full of new acquaintances, plus Ben bumming a ride home to West Virginia. Settled on a good mix of Tallest Man on Earth, Colin Meloy, and Justin Townes Earle on the ride to the campsite. Folk yea.
Saturday morning was a chilly start down at the Endless Wall and Beauty Mountain. Matt Golub killed a 5.9 trad lead up Supercrack while Matt Barnes and Gabe had fun on their first proper rappels.
On Sunday, we took advantage of artificially low water levels at Whippoorwill, an area closed to climbers most of the year. Arrived early and watched a crowd of fellow climbers & friends fill the walls. Matt Golub & Scott taught Gabe & I how to lead belay and lead sport climb on some solid jugs before departing. Everyone is excited to get back down to the New again this fall.
-M. Barnes